Day 17
Wednesday, May 1
SAMARKAND Samarkand grew as a city of importance under all
the Central Asian invaders until it was destroyed by Genghis Khan in the 13th
century. However unlike other cities destroyed by that most devastating of
marauders which never regained past glory, Samarkand revived like the
proverbial phoenix and became greater than ever, most spectacularly under a
descendant of Genghis named Timur Leng or Timur the Lame, and his grandson Ulug
Beg. What stands today dates back to the time of their rule.
This morning you’ll visit
the Bibi-Khanum Mosque, or what remains of it, built by Timur’s wife. It
collapsed in the earthquake of 1897 but it had been crumbling for years; the
weight of its massive dome too much for the walls to bear. Wander through the
farmer’s market next door.
Continue to the tomb of Timur—the Gur Emir. A
rather famous story occurred in June 1941 as the famous Soviet archeologist
Gerasimov disinterred the refined tyrant's body, ignoring the inscription on
Tamerlane’s crypt that, “He who opens this tomb will bring upon his country an
invader more terrible than me.” As the Professor held the conqueror’s skull in
his hand, an assistant burst into the burial chamber with the news that Germany
had invaded the Soviet Union - twenty million Russians perished during WWII and
its aftermath. (Those privy to ‘spirit
banners’ used by the khans, are delighted to see Timur’s actual spirit banner
inside of his tomb!)
Following lunch, you
may wish to visit the tomb of the prophet Daniel, near the old site of Afrosiab
where there have been extensive excavations. A small museum at the site
catalogs some of the finds. You may also visit the Ulug Beg Observatory.
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